Saturday, 31 March 2012
Friday, 30 March 2012
Thursday, 29 March 2012
Michael Peterson, ICONIC Folk Hero Passes Away.
Very sad news to hear that MP has died. He was a true original that inspired a generation of surfers with his style and aggression. He inspired the Campbell Bros in their board designs with the Stubby templates that he rode in the Morning of the Earth, his tube riding was legendary nobody could touch him on that! He still inspires surfings counter culture to this day,Australia should have a National MP day in his honour, with a single fin surfing expression session!! MP was and still is "THE MAN" God Bless.xx.
Wednesday, 28 March 2012
Bondi {scum valley} 1980
Me, Kev Lawton and "Small" at our flat in bondi with the first boards we got in oz.Mine's a McCoy double winger, kevs yellow board,god knows? the white one with stripes was a G&S and Smalls was a twinny from memory, me and Kevs were single fins. Bondi or Scum Valley as it was known was pretty down to earth in those days, a lot of crime and drugs went on there, our flat was right on Campbell Parade right on the beach, you went out of our front door across the road and you were on the beach!. bondi is to this day the worst surf break i've surfed!!, i didnt take us long to go and surf the north side!!. Oh yeah and the Thruster hadnt been invented yet!.
Tuesday, 27 March 2012
Mark Penwarden "Big Ern"
My bruv on his Mountain Dew spoon at Garie beach south of Sydney 1980.The spoon was built by Pete Berry from Maroubra/south side kneeboarders,who was with us on this day.We'd all skived off work for a barbie and a surf and it was a magic day.This shot of Ern coming off the bottom is one of my favourite shots ever! Best bruv in the world.xx
Saturday, 24 March 2012
For Trawler
The Los Bastardos Gang Featuring the Legend that is Mark"TRAWLER" Lawler on a recent piss-up down the local!
Thursday, 22 March 2012
DOOGS
Getting Vert @ slades Farm?
Genuine Hot Stuff "Rabbit" model from OZ Doogs brought this back from his trip there in the late 70's
Genuine Hot Stuff "Rabbit" model from OZ Doogs brought this back from his trip there in the late 70's
Wednesday, 21 March 2012
Tuesday, 20 March 2012
Monday, 19 March 2012
Thursday, 15 March 2012
DOOGS WEEK!!
Doogs surfing last winter, just to prove he's not dead and still has the old magic!!.Doogs suffered a stroke a couple of years ago and it's been a long struggle back to surfing again! Frankly he's a fucking legend!!. More from our "you missed it range" soon.
Wednesday, 14 March 2012
Tuesday, 13 March 2012
Durlston Head {more from the you missed it range}
Doogs again at Durlston, mid 70's the board on the ground is Kev Lawtons who took the pix. These were pioneering days of trying out new spots and Durlston was a lot of fun,tho we got some hidings down there in learning to ride it, we probably got just as many hidings getting down the cliffs to the "beach".The first time i surfed it was with "aussie" Steve Lynton, midweek on a super spring low,way back towards the point in the corner a perfect little point break righthander thats was V-shallow, i remember Steve getting bounced off the bottom on a big wave whilst riding his 7'+ Freedom single fin, the sun was out that day,a beautifull day that i'll never forget! Steve you LEGEND xx.
Monday, 12 March 2012
YA missed it !! During the 70's!!
Derrick "Doogs" Dear at Broad Bench.Probably early to mid 70's alone apart from the camera man{his mrs i think}.Note the 2 piece wetsuit longjohn and pod as it was known and also the board he was riding,a single fin of course!!.No crowds at all just "doogs" surfing it,as nobody surfed it much in those days, just me,doogs,kev lawton and a handfull of others. i was probably at school that day?!. Doogs got tubed senseless that day cos he's a legend! note also the mode of transport to get out their,and the red flag showing the offshore,also derrick aving a well earned fag.Quite relevant showing how it used to be,as Bench yesterday was to crowded as it nearly always is nowadays.So when people tell us we missed it!,I think it was you guys that really missed it?
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